Week 2: Observations & the Edwardian era
Silhouettes
{A Silhouette is a solid black outline of an ensemble, used to describe the shape of a person's body or the shape created by wearing garments of a particular style/period.}
1900s Edwardian era Silhouette: Hourglass; S-bend
The S-bend and hourglass silhouette is a result of the S-bend (straight front) corset, which is a corset with a straight cut from the bust to the hips, causing the shoulders and bust(monobossom) to be thrust forward and the bum pushed back.
Initially, the S-bend corset was thought to be healthier for the body as it placed less pressure on the font abdomen: allowing for a more upright posture and better respiration, as compared to the previous Victorian style corsets. However, it was found to exacerbate lumbar lordosis (swayback) and thought to be worse for the spine.
Now, the status of the corset has risen and they are worn as an outergarment by many. They are also frequently seen in designer collections to give a structured look together with intricate details, minus the pain of course, as they are designed to be tight-fitting but not restrictive.
S-bend corset details
The S-bend corset usually had ribbons and bows trimmings and wide lace edging; Stocking suspenders that were joined to the corset was introduced and it replaced garters.
As observed above, although both served the same purpose of holding the bones in place, flossing has become more decorative with more varied designs and colours; the embroidery is done to stand out from the corset unlike the past.
Ultimately, to understand the fashion of that period, popular culture also plays a huge part. Examples of popular culture then, include Post-Impression, Art Nouveau, Fauvism, German Expression, Abstract art and Cubism.
Drawing from Observation
{A Silhouette is a solid black outline of an ensemble, used to describe the shape of a person's body or the shape created by wearing garments of a particular style/period.}
Silhouettes over the eras
(Source:https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP_n7sQs9zge_0t91wNAcB87KdOykXWqVnKwRY_1KyY1s-IDATqdeNEmb9Ff95e1xo0aDb2xFAmkRQKj2yZeT_pXavjTMgjrpdLIqYQkZnfFxfgj4kLYCU7S1WgD0t5jCCcBt7ZQjhruBS/s1600/costumedesignill00trapiala_0107+1a.jpg)
Apart from the fabric of the garment, the corset plays the biggest part in shaping silhouettes in the past, as it shapes the body; And in the corset, boning plays the most essential part in shaping the body.
1900s Edwardian era Silhouette: Hourglass; S-bend
The S-bend and hourglass silhouette is a result of the S-bend (straight front) corset, which is a corset with a straight cut from the bust to the hips, causing the shoulders and bust(monobossom) to be thrust forward and the bum pushed back.
S-bend corset, exemplifying the hourglass figure
(Source:https://www.pinterest.com/pin/476114991827264666/)
The modern hourglass, without a corset, only with body-hugging clothes to show a good figure
(Source:https://fashionisabitch.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/scarlett-johansson-hourglass-figure1-485x658.jpg?w=485)
(Left:) Correct Posture; (Right:) Sway-back posture
(Source:https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/da/94/93/da94938ce64fa4a4769a4a4774d73f9f.jpg)
Modern Corsets by Hubert Barrere
(Source:http://elitechoice.org/2011/06/13/french-designer-hubert-barrere-relates-the-corsets-tale/)
Now, the status of the corset has risen and they are worn as an outergarment by many. They are also frequently seen in designer collections to give a structured look together with intricate details, minus the pain of course, as they are designed to be tight-fitting but not restrictive.
S-bend corset details
Embellishments
Decorative Trimmings
(Source: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/5b/05/e4/5b05e4ffa21cac2c09f1fe6e186d0c2b.jpg)
Sewing Details
Flossing:Then(left) VS Now(right)
(Sources:http://www.corsetsandcrinolines.com/timelineitem.php?index=190056 ; http://www.thelingerieaddict.com/2014/06/corset-talk-wonderful-world-flossing.html)
{Flossing is a type of embroidery done at the ends of bone channels in corsets to anchor the bones, so as to minimize movement and chances of poke-throughs}As observed above, although both served the same purpose of holding the bones in place, flossing has become more decorative with more varied designs and colours; the embroidery is done to stand out from the corset unlike the past.
Ultimately, to understand the fashion of that period, popular culture also plays a huge part. Examples of popular culture then, include Post-Impression, Art Nouveau, Fauvism, German Expression, Abstract art and Cubism.
Drawing from Observation
Drawing 1 - Denim
Topstitch?
Row of stitches found on the top/right side of a fabric, normally seen as a decorative feature and mostly found on denim.
Drawing 2 - Floor-length dress
Darts?
Darts are a folded piece of fabric that is tapered and stitched to create dimension on fabric and give shape to a garment; They should always be stitched from the broad end towards the point.
Types of darts
Technical Flats Practice
{Flats are black and white fashion drawings that shows a garment as if it were laid flat to display all seams, topstitching and any other design details.}
Basic Shirt Technical Flats
{Flats are black and white fashion drawings that shows a garment as if it were laid flat to display all seams, topstitching and any other design details.}
Men's Casual Basic 1
Basic Shirt Technical Flats
Straight Cut Jeans Technical Flats
Rivets?
They are the small metal buttons found usually at the corners of the pockets.
Initially I thought they were only decorative, BUT they are crucial for re-enforcing stress points in trousers that are often subjected to high tension/wear and tear.
Men's Casual Basic 2
Polo Shirt Technical Flats
Bermuda Technical Flats
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